Passionate about YSL
Today I went to Marrakesh without ever leaving Paris. Or so it seemed when I entered the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, where the latest offering is Une Passion Marocaine (A Moroccan Passion). This tiny jewel of an exhibition presents 36 caftans dating from the 18th to 20th centuries, as well as various embroideries and jewelry.
It should come as no surprise to anyone that Yves Saint Laurent makes magic. In this case, bravos are due Christophe Martin, a Parisian architect who has done the mise en scène for five exhibitions for the Fondation. For this one he has created an ambiance that is out of time, out of place.
The walls are painted the blue of the Villa Majorelle. Several mannequins are displayed beneath Moorish arches representing the villa’s portico. Recessed spots mimic moonlight, casting palm tree silhouettes that play against the walls. 
The adjoining room gives the impression of an interior courtyard, complete with pool and ceramic fountain, the trickling of the fountain a counterpoint to the traditional music heard in the background. An immense photograph of the Villa Majorelle covers one wall, and urns containing cacti are scattered about. Even the emergency exit is painted in the green, ochre and white of the villa’s doors.
As an aside, the Villa Majorelle was owned by the painter Jacques Majorelle, son of one of the most important artists of the Art Nouveau movement. The villa, in disrepair after its owner’s death, was purchased by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, who have restored the garden and the studio (now a museum of Islamic art) and have maintained the house for their private use.
Yves Saint Laurent was born in Algeria and later adopted Morocco as his second home. Throughout his career, he has been inspired by the tradition of finesse in craftsmanship and by the audacity of color typical of the region. This Moroccan inspiration for his work is clarified by the juxtaposition of a few of his creations and the opulent caftans of an earlier period.
The black wool jacket with black and red passementerie frogs, paired with the memorable ruby-colored velvet zouave pants and a red velvet tarbouche, dates back to 1979. From the 1989 collection, we see two capes, one in red faille, the other in orange, with cascading three-dimensional embroidery depicting bougainvillea — shades of purple on the former, the latter multicolored. Both top long dresses in draped mousseline de soie. One can only regret that more of them were not exhibited.
The exhibition pays homage to the excellence of the Moroccan artisanal tradition, as well as to the continuity of that tradition, as exemplified by the creations of the contemporary designer Tamy Tazi, whose caftans are themselves works of art.
I left reluctantly. It is cool and drizzling in Paris, but in this little corner of the Maghreb one could linger for a while, believing that the shutters had been drawn as a respite from the heat of the afternoon.
The exhibition runs until 31 August. The Fondation is located at 3, rue Léonce-Reynaud, 75116 Paris, about a three-minute walk from Métro Alma-Marceau. And whatever you do, don’t forget to check out the bookstore.
Jan del Monte, blogging from the rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France
Photo Credits: 1. Charles Emile Lecomte-Vernet, Rebecca (Collection of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé); 2. Villa Majorelle (Wikipedia Commons); 3. Detail of embroidery on a belt, early 20th century (Connaissance des Arts); 4. Wedding caftan, Fez, 20th century (Connaissance des Arts).
© 2008 Jan del Monte
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I felt as though I was there with you, not at my computer reading about it in the States. And to think that all I’ve thought about recently concerning YSL is pink jackets and a nearby YSL boutique with handbags sporting huge (and “tacky”!) brass YSL initials so that one can let the legally blind that they have a YSL bag! Your take on YSL and this exhibit has pulled me out of this narrow view of mine of late! I need to escape and could even deal with the hot summer in Paris when all the natives have departed for the seashore, as you note that this exhibition will be there through August. And I could avoid the crowds then, too — and walking from a neeaby Metro makes it all so easy. Your photos are wonderful, as usual, and make it all the more real to me. Walking out your door every day must be a truly wonderful experience! Keep walking and reporting; some of us may soon be lucky enough to walk with you, if you let us!
Do you realize you have readers who still remember YSL as a new, to be dismissed designer? I remember thinking that no one could be taking over the place in fashion held by Christian Dior, and YSL was certainly too young, too unimportant in the scheme of things, someone to be dismissed! That, of course, was 40-plus years ago!
Well, it seems I’m not the only one who thinks YSL is a genius. I bought some postcards in the bookstore with sketches for some of his dresses.
There will never be another YSL, no matter who takes over his collections. I had several pieces from the 70s bought on sale at a rediculous price. I have one heavy cotton jacket left. Thank you for bringing me back memories. Wonderful article!
Oh, cigalechanta, you are so right! I have only one piece — a fuchsia mohair long jacket (what we used to call a stroller, I think). Some might think I’m silly, but I have a feeling you’ll understand — wearing it to the exhibition just seemed the right thing to do.
And, nomdeplume4jrl, I hate to admit it, but I’m one of those who remember that young kid with the horn-rimmed glasses who came to take Dior’s place. Who would have thought?
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1413/1250050218_9c36a2a45b_o.jpg
Perfect, cigalechanta!
Have you seen the two films about YSL — “Yves Saint Laurent – His Life and Times” and “5, avenue Marceau, 75116 Paris”? I saw them a few years ago in Washington, and I see they are available on Amazon. Hmmm…