A Tale of Two Salons

With the rentrée, the lazy days of summer rapidly transform into a whirlwind of openings, exhibitions, brocantes and salons. Every day brings new invitations. Overnight, things go from “What shall I do today?” to “Which ones will I be able to do today?”

It is a time to renew old acquaintances, perhaps make a few new ones, and, above all, to learn. Like anyone who loves what they do, the dealers are only too happy to share their expertise. This is better than any museum: one can touch the objects. It is an exhilarating time. Each event provides an opportunity to view beautiful things, often in a dazzling setting.

The cream of salons is the Biennale des Antiquaires, held every two years since 1956 at the Grand Palais (except for a few years while the Palais was being renovated), where dealers of international renown are gathered under the nave of that magnificent building. Like the Universal Exhibition of 1900, for which it was constructed, the Grand Palais (seen below) and the works contained therein are a testimonial to the results of the marriage of creativity and technology.

This year’s Biennale seemed to me a bit heavier on fine arts than on furniture and objets d’art than in years past. There are works by Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Buffet, Greuze, Dufy, Greuze, Philippe de Champagne, Nikki de Saint-Phalle, to name just a few. Yet, there are still extraordinary things to be seen in the realm of decorative arts. There are antiquarian books, illuminated manuscripts, porcelain and glass, silverware, precious jewelry, furniture — it goes on and on.

The stands — that unassuming name hardly seems descriptive — vary. Some are a beautiful mise en scène that does honor to the works therein, while others are quite simple, letting the objects speak for themselves. One of the most beautiful was the 18th century room (pictured below), featuring boiseries of that period. I spoke briefly with the artisan who had restored them, and I hope to visit his workshop soon.

Last night, I attended a smaller salon, the Salon des Antiquaires et Arts Contemporains, held on a bank of the Seine not far from the Grand Palais. To go from one building to the other means walking underneath the Pont Alexandre III, another souvenir of the Universal Exhibition of 1900 (shown in the photo below at the time of its inauguration in 1900).

This salon provides yet another walk through history, another opportunity to expand one’s knowledge. While not nearly as imposing as the Biennale, there were some extraordinary things to see — beautiful furniture and decorative arts, paintings and sculpture from the past and the present to whet the appetite. My wish list has achieved encyclopedic proportions. This is the stuff of which dreams are made.

But, enough of my impressions. I’ll let you judge for yourselves in viewing the photo gallery that follows. The Biennale continues through 23 September (www.bdafrance.eu), the Salon des Antiquaires through the 21st (www.cmo-antiques.com).

(Photo credits: Grand Palais and Pont Alexandre III, Wikipedia Commons; 18th century room, François Léage. In the photos that follow, credit is given on the actual photo.)