Gardens of Crystal in the Parc de la Bagatelle
They’ve gone and created a fairyland just outside of Paris. The juxtaposition of the man-made splendor of works realized by the four most prestigious cristalleries of the Lorraine region — Baccarat, Daum, Lalique and Saint-Louis — and the natural beauty of the parc de la Bagatelle results in an exhibition that renders each element more impressive by virtue of contrast with the other.
The folie d’Artois and the parc de la Bagatelle were born of a wager between the comte d’Artois, younger brother of Louis XVI, and Marie-Antoinette. Artois had acquired the hunting pavillion, which was in a delapidated state; the Queen, amused when she first saw it, told her brother-in-law that she expected to be received there within two months. Artois rose to the challenge, and, due to the efforts of his architect and 900 workers, the folie was finished within the allotted time. The original gardens were designed by the Scottish gardener Thomas Blaikie, and subsequent owners have contributed to the evolution of the property.
Last Monday, one of the most (and perhaps last) beautiful days of the year, I took advantage of the weather, accompanied by two clients who were as delighted as I. If you are in Paris this month, it is well worth the trip. The exhibition “Jardins de Cristal” continues through 2 November in the parc (and its Trianon).
The folie d'Artois
Fountain of the Maharajah of Jodhpur, Cristallerie Saint-Louis
In the Trianon, by Cristallerie Saint-Louis
In the Trianon, by Baccarat
In the Trianon, by Daum
Flowers along the trail
Bear, by Baccarat
The gloriette, a pagoda in metal, crowns a grotto
Another fantasy by Baccarat
A resident peacock with justifiable pride of place
The pagoda in the Anglo-Chinese style, à la mode at the time.
As in the 18th century, the residents are naturally elegant...
...as are their counterparts, executed by Lalique.
And finally, a family of scarecorws in front of the gardener's cottage
Jan del Monte, blogging from the rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France
© 2008, Jan del Monte
The photos are absolutely amazing. A truly wonderful fall day for you and your clients. I’m envious and am wondering how one arranges such an excursion and learning experience with you? If you have time, could you enlighten me as to what sorts of things you’are willing to do and how one squeezes oneself into your busy calendar? I would be most appreciative. Again, this excursion is truly lovely.
I love the bagatelle gardens for its wonderful roses ( I grow roses and have about 60 bushes) and the iris too! Trust me to miss out on this ! It looks so wonderful and the daum cactus area looks fantastic. I love the fountain outside too. If I was a gardener, Bagatelle’s “Gardener’s cottage” is for me! So cute. I love the round Bagatelle palace and my favourite thing there is around the back. Two wonderful marble statues of half women half lions ( I bet they have a name but I don’t know it!LOL) . I would love to uproot them and carry them off to my garden !! The faces on them are beautiful Jan!! I am so surprised they are not in a museum for safety!
Ladyjicky, the half lion and half woman figures are sphinxes. They appeared in French art in the 1520s, continuing through the Baroque style of the French Regence in the early 1700s, and dearly loved by many like you until this day. One would be lovely among your many rose bushes! I live in a metropolitan area in the States, where one is thrilled to even own one small rose bush in a pot on one’s balcony or patio. I’m sure Jan can fill you in with more detail about the lovely sphinxes of greater Paris.
Oh my – sphinxes! Oooh, there is that BIG one in Egypt too! LOL but – those two pretty ladies at the Bagatelle are what I want!
Thankyou anniemousette for telling me what you call them. I wish you lived over here so I could invite you and Jan for a rose garden party / aussie BBQ.
Wouldn’t that be fun! I would ask Jan to bring some macaroons and real French cassis for Kir Royales and I would ask you anniemousette to bring some american lobsters and some root beer ( I LOVE American root beer! )
anniemousette, thanks. I had fun taking the pictures. You are not the first to ask about what I do. I think to explain it calls for a post, which will follow. In the meantime, if you have specific questions, please feel free to contact me through the email form on the Contact page.
ladyjicky, anniemousette gives a good explanation about sphinxes. The mid-18th century saw a surge in neoclassicism, both ancient Greek and Egyptian that continued and really peaked under the Empire, due in part to Napoléon’s campaigns.
The furniture in Madame Récamier’s salon and her bedroom featured sphinxes. They are now in the Musée du Louvre. Trust me. During my programme, I had to make a speech (in French, yet) about one of her armchairs, and I have been over every inch of it with a fine-toothed comb. You can see the furniture at http://www.insecula.com.
I would love to join you and anniemousette and nibble on macarons and sip kir among the roses. Which reminds me of the drink I had after going to la Bagatelle — a kir violette, which uses violet syrup in place of crème de cassis. It was really wonderful! And then, one of the people suggested rose syrup, which I have yet to try. Sounds like a trip to the Grande Epicerie is in order.
Jan, I love the violet and rose syrup idea . Any excuse to go to the Grande Epicerie is in order, gosh I Love that place. Now this is what a food hall should be. They try to do it here but it fails when you compare it to Bon Marche’s Grande Epicerie.