Harvest Time
Of course you’ve seen the windmills in Paris, but have you been to the vineyard? A vineyard in Paris? Indeed there is. In fact, there are over 150 vineyards in the greater Paris area, most of them educational and community projects (the European Union restricts the creation of new vineyards) that do not sell their wine through the usual outlets. The Clos Montmartre is the only one operating within the city limits.
Poster for this year's Fête des Vendanges
In Roman times, much of Montmartre was covered with grapevines, and a temple to the wine god Bacchus sat at the top of the Butte. From the 12th century the nuns of the Benedictine Abbey operated a winepress, the only one in all of Paris. Wine production continued even after the Abbey (like many properties belonging to the Church) was destroyed during the Revolution.
Montmartre was outside of the city limits of Paris at that time, and the wine produced was sold inside the city gates, while the cabarets around Montmartre served a red of significantly lower quality known as a piquette. The development of railroads during the 19th century made it possible to transport wine from other regions, and the demand for the local product decreased.
In the early 20th century, the vines were devastated by a combination of factors — phylloxera, mildew and urbanization – effectively putting an end to most of the vineyards around Paris. In 1921, a group of local artists and residents protested a real estate development project. The terrain was protected, and in 1933 the vines were replanted.
The Clos Montmartre covers a surface of 1556 square meters, maintained by a specialized team from Parcs et Jardins de la Ville de Paris. Roughly 27 varietals are grown, with Gamay (75%) and Pinot Noir (20%) holding the lead; the remainder are Seibel, Merlot, Sauvignon bland, Gewurtztraminer and Riesling. The names of each vintage reflect the history of Montmartre: Toulouse-Lautrec, Dalida, Moulin-Rouge, and Lapin-Agile are but a few examples. The yearly production is less than 2,000 bottles, which will be sold at auction. Bidding can reach astronomical heights, with all profits going to benefit local charities
Commanderie du Clos Montmartre, the local wine brotherhood
Autumn is in the air, and the grape harvest began last week at the Clos Monmartre. Harvest ends with the Fête de Vendange, a harvest festival first held in 1934. This year’s guest of honor will be Charles Aznavour. There are music and merriment, balls, fireworks, exhibitions, not to mention food and, of course, wine. There is a parade that includes the confréries bachiques (the wine brotherhoods) and the chevaliers du tastevin (winetasters) in traditional costume, and the wine auction.
The Fête des vendanges will take place this year from from 7 to 11 October. The parade begins at 3:00 p.m. at the Mairie of the 18th arrondissement and ends at place des Abbesses.
(Photo Credits: (1) Mairie du 18ème Arrondissement; (2) Montmartre-Guide)
Jan del Monte, blogging from the rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France
© 2009 Jan del Monte
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I’d love to be in Paris to experiece that.
Well, I wish you were here. I’m trying to talk someone into going with me.