Muguet de Paris

There are hundreds (thousands?) of things to see, just a short Métro ride from Paris. Here are but a few.

Saint-Germain-en-Laye

This charming little town grew up around the château, formerly home to the kings of France and the birthplace of Louis XIV. The Château-Neuf, or new château (there was another, but Henri II found it dreary and cold) was at various times a prison (under the Revolution), a hospital, a barracks and a cavalry school before Napoléon III transformed it into the Musée National de l’Archéologie (National Museum of Archeology).  On a clear day, there is a panoramic view of Paris from the grounds.

The Musée Claude Debussy is housed in the birthplace of the composer, whose innovations marked a major step in the evolution of music. In addition to the permanent exhibition, there are concerts featuring works by Debussy and his contemporaries, as well as temporary exhibitions and workshops for students.

My personal favorite is the Musée Departmental Maurice Denis. In 1914, the painter, head of the Nabi movement, moved into the former priory, built as a hospital by Madame de Montespan, mistress to Louis XIV. The permanent collection reunites the works of the avant-garde painters of the last half of the 19th century — symbolists, Nabis, post-impressionists and members of the group of Pont-Aven. In addition to the works of Maurice Denis, there are those of painters such as Gauguin, Bernard, Serusier, Vuillard and Bonnard.

The chapel is not to be missed. All of the decoration — furniture, frescoes, paintings and stained glass — was realized by Denis himself.

RER Ligne A1 to Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

A Florist near the Métro station

Detail of a stained glass panel, Musée Maurice Denis

On the grounds, Musée Maurice Denis

Stained glass in the chapel

A sculpture in the garden

The atelier where Maurice Denis painted

Neuilly-sur-Seine and the Jardins de Bagatelle

The first mention of  this thriving community to the west of Paris appeared in the 13th century. Neilly was a small port where the monks of the Abbey of Saint-Denis ran a ferry until the 17th century when Henri IV, having suffered an accident crossing the Seine, ordered constuction of a toll bridge.

In the 18th century, the word bagatelle designated a frivolous thing – a trinket or a trifle — as well as a place of romantic encounters.  The Comte d’Artois, brother of Louix XVI, constructed his in the bois de Boulogne  in response to a bet with his sister-in-law, Marie-Antoinette. She challenged him that he could not construct the little château within two months. He won the wager (with the aid of more than 900 workers).

Although the bois de Boulogne is officially part of Paris, the most practical way to reach the folie d’Artois is by way of the Métro station at Neuilly (Métro Ligne 1, Pont de Neuilly).

Downtown Neuilly-sur-Seine

Autumn foliage in the Jardins de Bagatelle

The folie d'Artois

Inside a pagoda, Jardins de Bagatelle

A grotto, crowned by a pagoda in wrought iron

Behind the gardener's cottage, Jardins de Bagatelle

Parc de Sceaux

Getting off the RER at Bourg-la-Reine, a little town which has retained its village-like atmosphere, it is a short walk to Parc de Sceaux, a wonderful way to have a day in the country without going too far from Paris.

The original château was built for Colbert, right hand to Louis XIV, who wanted a residence close to Paris and not far from Versailles. He hired André le Notre to design a jardin à la française. The property passed through many hands before being confiscated during the Revolution, until finally it was bought by a businessman who tore it down for scrap. The present château was constructed between 1858 and 1862 in the style Louis XIII, and the parc was meticulously reconstituted in the traces of the original by Le Notre.

 Do not miss the Orangerie and the Pavilion d’Aurore, with its ceiling painted by Charles Le Brun, two original structures that remain.

RER Ligne B to Bourg-la-Reine or Parc de Sceaux.

An interesting example of architecture at Bourg-la-Reine

This friendly fellow wanted to follow us home for dinner.

Just Married, à la française

Detail of the Château, Parc de Sceaux

Inside the Château

Cascading waters, Parc de Sceaux

All photos, Jan del Monte

Jan del Monte, blogging from the rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France

© 2009 Jan del Monte

∞

~ by Jane del Monte on September 22, 2009.

Posted in Potpourri