Fountain at the Grand Palais, by Moonik

As much time as I’ve spent in Paris, and loving it as I do, putting together a tour of the city  should be du gâteau (a piece of cake). Right? A resounding non! Perhaps because this city has meant (and still means) so much to me, I am at pains to do it justice. Never mind that I’ve been showing Paris to people for years, planning doesn’t seem to get easier.

Having said that, the logistics have been arranged, and ARTS in PARIS is pleased to announce its Biennale des Antiquaires Tour, September 16 – 24, 2012.

Since 1962, the Biennale des Antiquaires has been a favored destination for collectors of art and lovers of beauty. This year’s edition of the Biennale presents more than 180 exhibitors (nearly double the number in 2010), a mise en scène directed by Karl Lagerfeld, and yet another reason to be in Paris at one of the most beautiful times of the year.

It sounds as if this year’s Biennale is going to be better than ever. We’d love to meet you in Paris.

For regular updates, like ARTS in PARIS on Facebook.

Now, I’m off to plan a visit to Atlanta for my favorite Frenchman. This makes planning a tour of Paris look very easy!

Jane del Monte, bridging the distance

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As Paris resumes its normal pace, the question isn’t what to do but how to choose among the many offerings. Invitations begin to arrive, and last week I was delighted to find one to an event  I wouldn’t miss, the Salon du Collectionneur.

To kick off the rentrée, beginning on Friday, 125 antiquaires and art galleries will assemble beneath the nave of  the Grand Palais for the fourth edition of the Salon. Created in 2003, the Salon is held every two years, alternating with the Biennale des Antiquaires. Both are under the auspices of the Syndicat National des Antiquaires, an association of gallery owners and experts,

Although the scope of exhibitors is less global than at the Biennale, with most coming from France and other European countries, the variety of offerings is no less so. Whatever your passion, from archeology to contemporary art, you are sure to see something  of interest. From the jewels of a lady at the court of Louis XIV to skeletons of prehistoric reptiles, passing by an 18th century commode on the way to a chair in polyurethane by Gaetano Pesci or a painting by Zao Wou-ki, the quality is assured. All exhibitors and their works are vetted by the organizing committee of the Syndicat  before being invited to participate.

For those who experience a coup de foudre (love at first sight), the works exhibited are for sale. As for logistics, the dealer selling a piece will handle the customs requirements.

From 11 – 20 September 2009 from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m, with Nocturnes on Tuesday the 15th and Thursday the 17th until 10:00 p.m., at the Grand Palais (Métro Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau), www.sdcfrance.eu.

Jan del Monte, blogging from the rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France

© 2009 Jan del Monte

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And so began the collection that has been described as the most sumptuous in all of Europe, valued at €300 million, although some would say the estimation is low. Beginning on Monday evening, the collection will be dispersed, the hammer in the hands of the able François de Ricqles, vice president of Christie’s France. Since Monday, more than 150 workers have been engaged in transforming the Grand Palais into a setting worthy of what has been called “the sale of the century.”

The couple seemed to have a knack for acquiring things before they were à la mode. The bird is a 19th century work from the Ivory Coast, acquired at a time when African art was less known and less prized than today. They amassed an extraordinary collection of Art Déco furniture long before it enjoyed the demand of today. The list of artists represented in the collection reads like a litany of virtuosi of the fine and decorative arts — painters such as Goya, Géricault, Ingres, Léger, Mondrian, Matisse and Picasso, and decorative artists like Rateau, Dunand and Jean-Michel Frank.

There is controversy, as well. The Chinese government has demanded the return of two Qing Dynasty bronze animal heads — a rabbit and a rat — that they claim were looted from the Imperial Summer Palace near Beijing. It will be interesting to see how this plays out. Cultural property specialists feel the claim is weak, given that looting took place nearly 150 years ago.

A public exhibition will be held this weekend and Monday morning, followed by the sale beginning 23 February at 7:00 p.m. For those of you who aon’t be in Paris, check out Sale Highlights online at www.christies.com.

And the bird sculpture? M. Bergé will be keeping it.

Yves Saint Laurent in front of Les Coucous by Henri Matisse

Théodore Géricault, "Portrait of Alfred and Elisabeth Dedreux"

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, "Portrait of the Countess de La Rue"

Pablo Picasso, "Musical Instruments on a Pedestal Table"

Renaissance bronzes, with Dunand vase in the background

Photo Credits: 1 – 4, Le Figaro; 5, Point de Vue

Jan del Monte, blogging from the rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France

© 2009 Jan del Monte

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As part of its Interiors sale on 1-2 July, Christie’s Rockefeller Center will be selling a selection of vintage  couture, including pieces by Mainbocher, Versace, Balenciaga, Thierry Mugler, Christian Lacroix, Courrèges and Hermès.

Of special note, the sale, held a month to the day (plus one) after his demise, will include seven pieces designed by Yves Saint Laurent, including a dusty pink evening dress with pink metallic and silver embroidery created in 1958 for Dior. A camel cable knit sweater with fox collar and cuffs by YSL Rive Gauche, a style favored by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, is estimated at $250-400. Given its association with two iconic fashion figures, I wouldn’t be surprised to see the bidding on that one become fast and furious.

Further information and pictures may be found at www.christies.com.

Jan del Monte, blogging from the rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France

© 2008 Jan del Monte

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Now, I know I promised to digress from time to time, but I never expected to find a connection between the decorative arts and a far older profession. 

It seems that Gerald Cavendish Grosvenor, 6th Duke of Westminster, the third richest man in England, friend of the heir to the throne and godfather of Prince William, has been identified as a member of the same club that figured in the scandal that brought down the governor of the state of New York. 

When not participating in the Emperor’s Club, Gerald directed Grosvenor Continental Europe, which, in 2005, bought the Paul Bert and Serpette markets at the Marché aux Puces of Saint-Ouen, the 120-year-old flea market north of Paris.

Merchants at Saint-Ouen are facing a triple threat to their survival — the buying power of Americans has been significantly reduced due to the weak dollar; the competition from Internet sales, particularly for bric-a-brac and less important pieces; and, since 2005, the exorbitant rent increases imposed by Grosvenor (as much as 35 to 70 percent, often accompanied by an increase in monthly charges), which have caused many businesses to fold.

Rumor has it that the duke wants to turn Paul Bert and Serpette into a luxury market such as the Louvre des Antiquaires on rue de Rivoli. He may well have other things on his mind at the moment, but I would urge him to rethink this. On recent visits to the Louvre des Antiquaires, I haven’t exactly had to fight the crowds.

You have to love the spirit of the antiquaires. Business may not be good, but they haven’t given up yet. And they do have a way with words. They staged a protest last year, which included handing out flyers that suggested the duke “return to perfidious Albion.”

Just my personal opinion, but shouldn’t this market, which is a huge tourist attraction and an important part of the national heritage, be protected? 

Let me know what you think.

Jan del Monte, blogging from the rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris, France

© 2008 Jan del Monte

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